'90s revival sees return of era's biggest brands

MBC's popular entertainment show "Infinite Challenge", featuring singers and idol groups from the '90s. [JoongAng Ilbo]

When the popular TV show "Infinite Challenge" aired its "Totoga" spinoff early this year, which featured hit singers from the 1990s, fervor for the decade surged once more.

But while hit film "Architecture 101" sparked the era's first retro revival in 2012 in terms of music and technology, the current second resurgence is all about fashion.

Hot pop groups from the decade such as S.E.S, DJ DOC, Cool, Jinusean as well as singers So Chan-whee,Kim Gun-moand Kim Hyun-jung, performed in the program while wearing the trends of the time.

The musicians donned many of the items of clothing that dominated in the '90s but seem outdated today: baggy pants, oversized jackets and T-shirts with large logos featuring the titles of certain brands.

But what happened to these companies that led Korean fashion in the '90s?

According to industry insiders, the names that survived through the start of millennium to now are those that followed ever-changing trends yet maintained a distinct heritage.

Dr. Martens boots were must-have items during the '90s in Korea.

The heavy and clunky leather footwear was worn by girl group Fin.K.L, and although they were mostly covered up by the members' baggy white pants, fans still took notice.

The clumsy shoes became popular for both boys and girls alike.

The 55-year-old British brand still produces the boots, but the designs have become more sophisticated, diverse and have been reinterpreted using the more modern concept of "rebellious youngsters".

Top: If Dr. Martens fever in Korea was on its iconic black eight-hole boots, the designs have become more diverse through numerous collaborations to suit the taste of current consumers.Above: Jansport continues to maintain its signature backpack design yet the functionality and designs continue to evolve according to the current trend.

Dr. Martens says it has also increased the number of clothing items and accessories such as bags that appeal to "consumers of today who still look for the Dr. Martens heritage but desire products that can express individuality".

"Dr. Martens has constantly been launching its Archive line, which is a reinterpretation of discontinued models", said Oh Ye-gyun, the PR manager at Dr. Martens Korea, while explaining that the brand constantly tries to cater to the appetites of today's consumers.

"Moreover, every season Dr. Martens launches different collections by reinterpreting the 'retro fashion',?" Oh added.

For this year's SS15 collection, Dr. Martens launched a collaboration line with a Japanese tattooist, creating a range of colorful Dr. Martens boots. It also strengthened its sandal line by collaborating with popular program "Adventure Time" from Cartoon Network.

School backpacks in the '90s were dominated by Jansport and Eastpak. But Jansport seems to have been more strategic in staying trendy.

"To cater to consumers in their 20s who are more digitalized, a new line of backpacks have been launched and it's been attracting the consumers as actor Kim Soo-hyun appeared in the currently airing KBS drama "Producer" wearing the bag", said Lee Han-wool from the Jansport Korea marketing department.

Jansport has also launched collaboration collections with artists and young street brands, a move that stems from the company's "discover freedom" tagline.

Early this year, the company organized the "Live outside Seoul" campaign, which exhibited some of its various lines together with artwork to appeal to today's younger consumers with an interest in technology.

Street casual brand Boy London also enjoyed a heyday in the '90s.

Boy London collaboration collection with Marvel includes the "Avengers" characters. Provided by the brand

However, upon the bankruptcy of its Korean mother company Bosung Group, it could no longer be found in the country.

The brand made a comeback in 2012, however, when a different firm acquired its trademark rights.

To suit the tastes of young people, Boy London tweaked its logo to feature a large print of an eagle as well as the brand's name in large letters.

Since relaunching, the products were only available online or in selected shops but finally opened its own store last November in Garosu-gil in Sinsa-dong, southern Seoul.

Boy London also embarked on collaborations with other brands and artists as a strategy, dedicating the second floor of its store to these collections.

This season, the brand's line created with the Marvel Series especially garnered attention from young consumers. Next year, the brand is planning to launch accessories.

However, not all companies from the '90s with a nostalgic value were able to stay on a roll.

Nautica is one of these.

Actor Jo Jung-suk was featured wearing the brand while playing the character Napdeuki in "Architecture 101".

As he is portrayed in the film as a fashionista, the fact that he wears a Nautica jacket shows that the company used to have more of an edge.

The one-time "It" brand began to lose popularity after entering the new millennium, and in 2007 the US-based apparel maker left Korea.

But perhaps the local fashion industry could not let go of its lingering affection for the brand upon witnessing others from the '90s regaining their vogue.

In 2009, a local fashion company brought Nautica back to Korea.

The brand said its main target is those in their 20s to early 30s and that it will attract them with the three keywords "adventure", "action" and "classicism".

The brand seemed like it was going to catch on upon opening up a store in 2010 right in the middle of Myeong-dong, the shopping district in central Seoul.

But just after a year, it vanished without a trace.

It came back again under another local fashion company Amanex in 2012, for the third time. This time, it took a different approach and relaunched as an outdoor brand.

As it was a little late to join the outdoor apparel craze in Korea, Nautica challenged its front-runners by focusing on both the functionality and style of its outdoor apparel products. It started off big, by having world starLee Byung-hunas its main model.

But it could not survive more than two years among other competitive outdoor brands, and Amanex filed for court receivership late last year.

Among various women's apparel brands under Amanex, Nautica's failure to safely settle down as an outdoor brand was reported as the cause for the company's near bankruptcy.

Local media reported on the issue in October, and an official from Amanex was quoted as saying that it would only operate the brand until the end of 2015, when the license with Nautica's U.S. head office comes to an end.

The official added that the company has decided to focus on their women's apparel brands as, "Nautica's depression may damage other brands under Amanex".

Currently, the brand is being sold online through social commerce sites for very low prices.

BY YIM SEUNG-HYE [yim.seunghye@joongang.co.kr]